Bailey: It’s another Beautiful Morning! I do an early morning walk with The Woman, and then with The Man but by then, the tiny flies are back out and he wants to get going. More English speaking people are appearing and you know how all of them like to travel with dogs, so maybe it’s good we’re moving along.
Back on the rutted road, Sprockets is rocking back and forth. There’s farmed land out the window. After we get back on pavement, we stop at a gas station where they fill up Sprockets and then crawl underneath for something.
The road goes through a lush valley, and then into an area with the strangest plants I have ever seen! Some of them look familiar – those spiny things called yuccas, others are tall wavy cones with soft, thin, curly things sprouting all over. And then, we enter the Big Boulder Zone. The boulders are giant!
We pull over in front of a little wooden building. It smells like smoke and grease and meat and gasoline. After The Woman walks me around a bit, they go inside. When they come out, they smell just like the building.
Sometimes I nap, sometimes I watch the scene from the window, sometimes I stick my head out (“Snottle!” The Woman says every time I snort) and sniff the air. Eventually, we get to another beach. There’s more trash on this one, including an intriguing looking/smelling bag on the beach. I’ll have to investigate it as soon as I can.
More people and cars are here. And more dogs. Ugh. Some of them want to come and say hi. Don’t they get it? I don’t like them. I don’t want them near me. I’m not a dog, like they are. So, just stop it, okay?
Tanuki: The beach was so deserted yesterday but one after another, North American cars appear. Surfers from BC…Washington…who knew this was so popular. Glad it was deserted when we were there.
At El Rosario, we fill up with expensive diesel (P21/ltr), and then crawl under Sprockets to tie up some loose cables. The area around El Rosario is also fertile ag land. It seems busier, with more restaurants, hotels, etc. than before.
After the fertile valley, we enter the rolling hills of cirios. This is the big cirios biosphere that extends over a vast area. Pretty much from here to Guerrero Negro. But everything is stunningly green and there are pretty wildflowers everywhere. The cirios are so bushy now, they look like furry cones, with leafy stalks boinging out every which way. Yuccas are flowering, barrel cacti are plump… Even when we get to the Big Boulder Zone, there’s a lot of green between the rocks…
Until we cross over to the Marmol Mesa area. Here, it’s more Mojave-like: big boulders, small shrubs and not much else. We stop at a truck stop cafe — a little house in the middle of nowhere beyond Guayaquil. They have a montage of faded photos of big rigs out front, along with chairs made of old truck tires. It looks like it was once an RV park, too. Several pull through sites are on both sides of the house, with sewer outlets (and water inlet?). Once upon a time. It had water. Power, too. Someone’s good idea that didn’t work, I guess. (Like La Gringa RV spot at Bahia de LA?) There is also a pack of dogs lying around on the other side of the house. Glad they didn’t come out when B and I first walked around.
When we enter the “cafe” it’s cold and dark inside but at least it smells like food. Big Dog orders the machaca seca comida and I get the machaca burritos. That’s pretty much all they have and the machaca is really seca! And salty. And expensive. But out in the middle of nowhere, what can you expect?
We still don’t know if we’re going to stop in Catavina or not, but when we get there (and there are LOTS of hotels!) we decide to keep moving.
“We can do it on the way back,” we say.
So, now, do we go to Bahia de LA or??? We finally decide on Santa Rosalillita. I’d read that there’s a beautiful paved road to it. Another good idea that went nowhere, I guess. Mexico is filled with them.
After Punta Prieta, the road curves and goes down toward the coast. Out here there are yuccas and things that look like Joshua trees. Yucca brevifolia. A big wide road turns off of Mex 1 and goes down to Santa Rosalillita. There is something big and industrial down there, all kind of in ruins. Was it once a dock? packing plants? Other than that, there is a collection of funky buildings and homes, some abandoned, some not… We are reminded of Puertocitos.
In from the beach, there are little dunes and places to park between them. One spot is already taken by an SUV with tent on top. There are small but beautifully formed waves that look like fun surfing. A few pangas are resting on the small deserted beach.
But then, The Others begin arriving. One gringo vehicle after another, all with surfboards. Is that a caravan of surfers next to us? 4 or 5 vehicles corralled together in one spot. Lots of gringo dogs, too, so we have to be careful, but B still gets to run around a bit, sniffing a big bag of dog food washed up on the beach.
Unfortunately, my stomach begins to hurt so I am running out to poo in the bushes. Not having a useable toilet in Sprockets is a real drag since there are more and more campers and when it gets dark, a local walks around with a flashlight. He says he works here and looks out, so no problem staying. Or something like that. Maybe all the residents are employees of the Big Something That Never Was.