The thumb is smarting now. It’s not even 8am and we are already being blasted by the sun – the mountains blocking the morning sun are lower on this beach. The paddle people are already out and many campers are bustling about.
Morning is when the food vendors appear with seafood, veggies, water (non-potable) and maybe some tamales or empanadas. I get 2 tamales, an empanada and a bunch of green onions from one truck vendor but am shocked to hear it will be P80. I only have P70, so I give him back half of the onions. It seems pricey, but they do come out to you, so…
Later, handicraft and blanket vendors appear. One group from Mitla in Oaxaca has beautiful blankets. Another sells picture frames made of cactus “skeletons.” An ice cream cart shows up. But where are the drinking water and beer vendors?
We have a slightly late start when we go out towards the bigger island in our kayak. It’s hotter and the sea is a bit rougher so Big Dog decides he doesn’t want to struggle over to the island so it’s a very short excursion.
Back on land, we quickly devour the chicken tamales. They are yummy and different from the ones we’ve had on the mainland. First, they are plumper, with the ends tied off rather than folded over. Second, the masa is flavored with tomato, chile and spices. Third, there is more filling. This one has shredded chicken, olives and potato. They are P20 each (the mainland ones are usually P10~20) but these are much tastier. Big Dog thinks the empanada is better than El Boleo’s.
Some campers have moved out, others have moved in. The palapa builders are not here today even though the palapa is only half finished, but between what is there and Sprocket’s shadow, we have enough shade to be comfortable while reading.
In the afternoon, we take a stroll around the south point, meeting “Tony” and “Maria” in an aluminum truck camper on the way. Maria is still excited from her morning SUP session when she was surrounded by an army of dolphins. Their camper is only 700 pounds, with awning, and quite nice. When Maria shows you the interior, I am amazed at how spacious it is. The bed pulls out so that during the day, they have higher ceilings and more space. There is also quite a bit of storage space.
Around the point is Playa Cocos and walking through it, we finally find the entrance along the highway. The Oregon couple with the 3-legged dog is here. Cocos is about as nice as Escondida although the beach is a little smaller and, thus, more packed.
The harp player next to you, “Larry,” gives us another evening of beautiful music. The harp has little Christmas lights on its frame.
“It’s to help me see all the strings,” he says. There are 36 strings or so. Must be a bitch to tune! Apparently there is a violin/fiddle player in another vehicle. If only I had my ukulele.
Dinner is pasta with vegetables and last night’s fish. The fish is firm and lean, tasting a bit like cod.
Earlier, Big Dog noticed the house batteries were below 100%. Then, suddenly it’s plummeted to the red zone. A red light also comes on near the floor. By the time we are in bed, the red light is flashing. Sometime in the middle of the night, it begins beeping loudly. I quickly jump up and turn the fridge off. The beeping stops, but we now know the house battery is dead. Tomorrow we will have to move on.