In the early morning, I peek out. A film crew is out there, shooting from the top of the rock. A French couple has also camped here and the guy is wandering around, maybe looking for a place to poo. And I am covered in bites! Aaaaaugh! This happened the last time we were in Balandra. I thought it was from the tiny pinhead sized black bugs on the beach, but now I realize they are gnat-like no-see-ums. Biting midges? Sand fleas? No matter what they are, they are vicious and bitey.
Someone with more sense would have covered up before heading out, but I don’t, getting bit some more as I get the kayak ready and go out. The water is a gorgeous milky blue, calm and very clear. Out near the rocks, there is coral and fish – black and yellow striped ones, larger darker ones, schools of tiny fish.
When we come out of the water, I get bit some more. I notice that the French couple are victims also. They are packing up and getting ready to leave. So do we. My entire body is a mess of bites.
The film crew van is nearby…but they are also at the Pemex station south of Balandra, shooting a scene at the minimart when we get there to shower, wash windows and so on. We can’t park in front of the store and when you go to the side, they tell us to move somewhere else. We’re not sure what they’re shooting but it seems to be a movie of some sort, rather than a reality show, even though it looked like they were shooting down at us from that rock in Balandra. Maybe it’s another “Y Tu Mama Tambien”!
“So, you’re a movie star!” jokes Big Dog to the shop attendant who comes to unlock the bathroom. She was in the movie – “a tiny bit,” she says.
We are trying to get to a place on the Pacific side. It’s down miles of dirt road so when we get to the turnoff to Bahia Almejas, Big Dog asks the people at the restaurant (there seems to be one at every turnoff!) what is out there.
“A pretty beach. Nothing else.” Hey, sounds good! So off we go, down the dusty, washboarded road. Sprockets is rattling and we are sucking huge clouds of dust. The morning shower is wasted.
A van full of people is stuck on the road. They are waiting for their guy to come back with gasoline. It looks terribly hot and the women are sitting on the rear bumper for the tiny bit of shade from their vehicle.
Still the road continues. Straight, up and down. Everytime we approach the apex of a hill, we hope to see something. Water, whatever. But all we see up ahead is another dip and another rise.
“Let’s have a beer,” suggests Big Dog, stopping in the middle of the road.
After what seems like forever, we finally get to the turnoff to Cayucos, or so I think. There is water down there. But it’s still another couple of miles on this dirt road with mounds of soft dust/sand. Can we even drive down it? And turn around? What’s down there? Mud? It is too freaky and we are tired of this dust.
“I’m turning around,” says Big Dog and back down the dirt road we go, towards the highway. 20 miles of dusty, bumpy, dirt road for nothing. In Mexico, there are many roads to nowhere. But doesn’t that pavement feel great when we get back on it! (“Yesssss!” sighs Sprockets.)
It’s smooth sailing to Ciudad Constitucion where we find Campestre La Pila, a campground that is a big open, dusty space with only a few small trees. It is empty except for a camper van from BC. But, hey, there’s a pool and it sure looks inviting. There is also electricity and toilets and showers! And internet! All for P180.
We swim, we wash clothes. I use their toilet, again and again. We use our kitchen fan, use the lights! Electricity amps us up!
End of Day Miles: 1881.2 mi